5th Day - 23 November 2023

Today was the earliest time I woke up to prepare for the 420 km journey ahead, along the west coast of Sumatra. When I walked outside, the sun had not yet risen, and it was bitterly cold.

I began my journey at around 5:30 AM, aiming for Subulussalam, the first city in Aceh province. The morning was lively, with children heading to school, sellers setting up their goods, and early commuters on the move. After crossing the city boundary, the scenery shifted: the road grew steep and winding, lined only by dense trees with no houses in sight.

I enjoyed the journey through the clear, fresh air, and before I knew it, I stopped at the first gas station I came across. There is a clear difference between South Sumatra and Aceh. When I entered Aceh, I started to see mosques with beautiful designs along the way. I hadn’t seen them in the past four days. Even just a few kilometers can change the environment and culture. After a quick break and refueling, I continued my journey.

As I continued, palm trees filled the landscape, indicating the significant presence of the palm oil industry in this area. When I reached Trumon, I found a muddy road and thought it was due to construction, caused by “irresponsible contractors who disturb others”. But it was actually a flood mixed with a landslide. Water and debris from the mountains entered the village. Tree trunks were scattered among houses, and the bare hills showed signs of the slide. I took off my shoes and waited while teams cleared the mud, causing a traffic jam for more than half an hour.

The first thing that came to mind when I saw the situation was an error in thinking, especially if happened in professional work. Based on Daniel Kahneman’s book Thinking, Fast and Slow, we indeed have a system that works automatically. However, when the situation is not dire, we can slow down and try to understand the context, rather than reaching a premature conclusion. In this case, I don’t have a need to draw a conclusion and blame others.

I saw people working together to clean up the road. Passing the city, I still saw some people with tools riding to the impacted area. I believed that they would help the victims. The Gotong Royong spirit was clearly visible in this situation. I rode a motorcycle without using any footwear. After riding for about 10 kilometers, I stopped at a mosque in Bakoengan to wash my feet, take a break, and have a snack. I also checked how long the road ahead is, and it still takes a long time to finish; I hadn’t covered half of the way there.

Shortly after that, I reached the west coast, where I could see the Indian Ocean. The wind blowing from the ocean made the ride even more refreshing, despite the heat. There are not many curvy roads ahead. Additionally, the asphalt was exceptionally smooth, with no visible potholes. I hope more roads in this country have this kind of quality.

The clock had shown that it was already past 12 noon, and I hadn’t had any meals when I entered Tapak Tuan. I rode slowly, looking for a restaurant to stop at. When I was almost at the city border, my eye was drawn to a small place that looked promising for lunch. It’s at this place Rumah Makan Minang Bersaudara, where I had lunch and first experienced having a buffet in a Padang restaurant.

The heat made me continue the ride and really want to reach today’s destination. I didn’t really remember how to get to the road after having lunch. The next thing I remembered was taking a break at a mosque, which lasted more than half an hour. During the break time, I remembered that I had read a new chapter of One Piece. My back had become quite sore, and the heat hadn’t dissipated yet, but I still needed to continue the ride.

There was only one thing I remembered before arriving at Meulaboh. I stopped at a pharmacy to buy medicine to relieve my rash, and when I stepped off the motorcycle, I got back pain. Unfortunately, this place didn’t sell any kind of medicine to help with my problem.

Around 5 PM, I arrived at RedDoorz Syariah @ Jalan Gajah Mada Meulaboh. It was the first place on this trip with proper hot water, and taking a bath after a long ride felt great. That night, I went out to get dinner, look for medicine, and refill fuel for the next day. At the pharmacy, I asked about medicine for my rash. The pharmacist provided me with some options, and her friend suggested vitamin C to aid in my recovery. I turned down the suggestion because I knew it wouldn’t help much in my case. I wish she had offered something more useful. In situations like this, especially for Indonesians who may feel uncomfortable saying no, it’s important to know what we need and to understand what’s being offered. Is it really for our benefit, or just theirs? Robert Cialdini’s book, Influence: The Psychology of Persuasion, explains this concept well. Maybe I’ll share some points from it later.

6th Day - 24 November 2023

Today’s destination was Aceh, and a story that became the title of this post. I started this journey just past 9 AM, and I aimed to get halfway when I stopped for Friday prayer. Also, today was the first day that I looked for breakfast. Just before I left Meulaboh, I found a small warung where I had breakfast, and they sold Nasi Lemak. I ordered rice with egg and some tempeh. I was the only customer who was dining in at the moment. After some time, the owner asked where I came from, and it turned out she also had descent from Banjar; her grandparents had migrated to Sumatra. Her parents continue living there, and so does she. She never went to Banjar, but I was shocked when she could speak Banjar. She told a story about how she had lived here and asked about life in Bajar nowadays. When I went to continue, she said “Bagamatlah, jangan laju-laju”, which means take it slow, don’t rush. At that time, I just thought about taking it slow when riding because the road was straight and there were not many vehicles. Along the way, we can see a warning to take it slow, as frequent accidents have occurred in this area. However, this advice became more profound with the passage of time.

First destination Masjid Baitul Makmur Krueng Sabee to break the Friday prayer. With an average of around 60 KM, I arrived at the mosque just before it started. After the payer, I still took a break for more than half an hour because I had become quite sleepy. I continued the journey, and the weather remained unchanged from the previous day. We could see many beaches along the way, but I got too lazy to stop and enjoy the view.

40 km before reaching Aceh, I stopped to refuel. After that, the road climbed a mountain, making it very hard to overtake a truck, which caused me to ride very slowly. When I went back down the mountain road, the landscape changed. I saw many cows walking around the road, with their dung on the road. Additionally, a road that bore witness to the destructive power of the 2004 tsunami. We could see the old road and the new road.

I arrived at Aceh around 5 PM. I followed the map and went directly to RedDoorz Syariah near RSUD Zainoel Abidin Banda Aceh. After taking a bath, I went out to nightlife in Aceh. After just following the road (and in the end got lost), I went back to buy dinner at Daus Nasi Goreng Khas Aceh Peunayong. This fried rice is a dish that, at least occasionally, we need to try, rich in spices and featuring a variety of toppings.

7th day - 25 November 2023

Today, I took a break from traveling to another city. All morning, I just stayed in bed and enjoyed it. After 2 PM, I went to Museum PLTD Apung. The sky was already cloudy as I left. When I arrived, I went inside. It’s really a ship in the middle of the city. I walked to the top deck.

This ship is a silent witness to the devastating 2004 tsunami in Aceh. A 2600-ton ship dragged 3 km to land.

When I wanted to go back to the homestay, the rain poured down again. Waiting more than half an hour, I decided to go back even though the rain hadn’t stopped yet. Also, I bought Daus’s fried rice again for this dinner. I arrived at the homestay and spent the rest of the day checking tomorrow’s route, including how to cross to Wei Island and booking a hotel for tomorrow night.

8th Day - 26 November 2023

Around 10 AM, I went to Ulee Lheue harbor. It was a very exciting first time crossing the sea and bringing my motorcycle. To enter the harbor, you need to use electronic money like Flazz or E-money from Mandiri. I parked the motorcycle in front of the food stall. I bought hot tea and asked the owner how to get to Sabang. She said that you could buy a ticket on the locket, but for now, it is still closed, and I just need to wait. Around 12 pm, it’s open and I bought the ticket. After that, I directly entered the queue park. I took the ship and quickly searched for a place to sit. There were not many people at that time. I just sit all the way there. After 1 hour, I arrived at Balohan harbor, greeted by a cloudy sky, and I could see rain pouring on the other side of the island.

I opened Google Maps to find today’s hotel, Pulau Weh Paradise, which is located outside the city center. This building was far from other places, on the north side of the island. When I arrived, it seemed I was the only guest, and luckily, the owner gave me an upgraded room. I went to the room to put my things on the second floor. There were kittens in front of my room, and of course, it’s very cute. Look at this kitten below.

After taking a short break, I visited Wisata Gua Sarang, which is not far from the hotel. When I arrived, there were not many people there, and I immediately recognized it as a cave under a cliff. I don’t go to the cave because you need to rent a boat. I just flew the drone over it. After that, I went down to check the beach, which was full of rocks. After spending some time at the beach, I went back to the parking area. It’s very humid, with no sunshine, but it got quite hot, and when I reached the top, I ran out of breath.

I went to the city center to find some logistics, and suddenly, heavy rain was pouring down. I put on my raincoat and continue the ride. When I reached Sabang, the rain had already stopped. I ride around the city, watch the beach, and people sit waiting for the sunset. I rode back to the hotel at night after buying toast and had dinner. Before that, when I stopped to have dinner, I left my phone on the motorcycle, and the guard saved it and asked me to be careful next time. It’s already dark, and there are not many road lamps, nor are there many houses. Just before I reached the hotel, I almost hit a snake on the way back. It’s very scary to see a snake cross the road with no other light, except for the motorcycle.

9th Day - 27 November 2023

In the morning, I went directly to the must-visit place on Weh Island, the Kilometer Nol Monument. I pass the same road as yesterday when I visited the cave. The road was quiet, with not many other visitors. Just 1 hour later, I arrived at the destination. I parked my motorcycle in the parking area and walked to the monument. Along the road, you could see many shops that sell souvenirs and food.

I stand in front of the monument, which is still undergoing some renovation. Also, be careful, as the monkeys here can be very aggressive. Make sure to keep a close eye on your belongings and hold them securely. If you put it somewhere, the monkeys sure will take it. Had a talk with a guide who brings guests from Malaysia. We exchanged phone numbers, maybe if I need to visit and need some guidance around Sumatra, he can help.

After enjoying the view, I walked back to the parking area. I bought some fried bananas, and it was something, I need to buy again if I visit here. I’ve never found this type of fried banana in other places; it’s very crispy on the outside.

Riding back to Sabang, I stopped at a crossing place to visit Rubiah Island. Upon arrival, I met a local who was offering snorkeling services. It’s quite cheap, but I cannot accept it. First, I am still afraid of water, and I need to catch a ship to return to Aceh this afternoon. I just asked for his phone number. I hope to visit this place again and go snorkeling.

When I arrived at Sabang, I had lunch at Murah Raya Diner. The owner was very nice; I received a discount when I paid, as I mentioned, I was from Kalimantan. He said something like this, “In here, people are nice to others, no exception to the visitor. Don’t be afraid to come to Sabang and enjoy this island.”

I went back to the harbor, but took a break at Jamik Syuhada mosque, which is already near the harbor. I sit on the mosque terrace, enjoying a fried banana that I bought earlier, and observe a local selling snacks to children. Back to the harbor and have a chat with a local. Asked where I come from, why I went here. Additionally, they claim they want to go to Jakarta, but are still hesitant to do so. After waiting for one and a half hours, the locket opened and I bought the ticket. Also went directly to the ship afterward. In this ship, I just tried to take a nap, but couldn’t do it.

The ship almost arrived at Aceh at dusk, and I could see the first sunset sky on the horizon during this trip.

I returned to the same hotel to rest. I’m not going anywhere that night, and I feel time pass quickly. I’m almost at the end of this trip.

Looking back on this journey, I realized there were still two places in Aceh I wanted to visit: Masjid Raya Baiturrahman and the Museum Tsunami Aceh. I only passed by them this time, so they’re on my list for the future. This trip gave me new sights and adventures, but it also made me appreciate the diversity and resilience I saw along the way. I look forward to coming back and exploring what I missed. Each road ahead will bring more to learn and add to my travel experiences.